Dutch destinations: take in the allure of Apeldoorn

Paleis het Loo gardens Image: Paleis het Loo

For many travellers, Apeldoorn serves as a gateway to the Veluwe area of wild heathland. Have a stopover here while on your way to the wilderness and visit its modern art museum, cafes, and more.

Apeldoorn dates back to the 8th century when it was known as Appoldro. In the centuries that followed, it earned a reputation for being one of the hardest working communities in the country. Its industrious citizens toiled away at paper production, meat processing, and clothes washing, the latter thanks to its ample supply of clean water filtered by nearby moraines.

During World War II, it was one of the final cities liberated by Canadian troops during Operation Cannonshot. You can learn more about the battle in the Apeldoorn portion of the Victory Walk, which features an audio tour.

The often overlooked Apeldoorn now serves as a stopping point for cyclists and other travellers heading to the Hoge Veluwe National Park or to Paleis Het Loo and Apenheul, two popular attractions that lie on its outskirts. If the forecast suggests rain or you have an empty gap in your schedule, head here to discover all the city has to offer.

Five things to do

Some of the Apenheul’s residents. Photo: Depositphotos.com

Go ape at Apenheul
You’ll find over 300 primates at this zoo located on the edge of Apeldoorn. When it first opened in 1971, it was the first in the world to allow its residents to roam freely among the visitors and that is still the case today. Apenheul is involved in various nature conservation efforts along with research, education, and other projects and is considered to be one of the most unique zoos in Europe.

Step through the gates of a palace
While it isn’t the largest palace in the Netherlands (that title goes to Kasteel de Haar near Utrecht), Paleis Het Loo is arguably the grandest, earning it the nickname ‘Versailles of Holland.’

Commissioned by the Orange-Nassau family in the 17th century, it was later used as a getaway for royals and nobles who often flocked there to hunt and work on their falconry skills. It remained a summer residence until queen Wilhelmina offered up the palace and the surrounding grounds to the Dutch state upon her death in 1962.

Newly renovated with a smart new underground entrance, the palace contains much of the original furniture, paintings, and other decor. Go on a stroll through the Baroque ‘Grand Garden’ and the stable yard that features a collection of carriages, cars, and other vehicles before or after you take in the elegance within the palace itself.

Check out the CODA Museum
At the time of this writing, the museum is hosting three intriguing exhibitions that will continue unitl November. The first features photos from the Veluwe and the second is devoted to the nitrogen crisis in the region.

Photo: Brandon Hartley

The big draw at the moment is CODA Paper Art 2025, which wraps up on 2 November. It features large displays and clothing made from paper products. Those in search of whimsy and/or kitsch are sure to get a kick out of the full-size, spinning Mini Cooper constructed with cardboard. The museum also has a library, a cafe, and a rooftop garden. 

Put it down on paper
De Middelste Molen is a paper factory in the nearby town of Loenen that’s been operating since 1622. Its watermill keeps things moving along with good, old-fashioned H20 and steam. Needless to say, it’s the only paper factory in the country still doing this.

Along with a museum, the staff also host tours where you can have a look at the carefully preserved production line, but space is limited and they’re only offered on certain days. Tickets should be booked in advance via the factory’s website.

All aboard!
Lovers of all things locomotive are sure to enjoy the Veluwsche Stoomtrein Maatschappij museum. Go on a journey back through time by visiting Beekbergen Station, which houses the museum and a collection of railway equipment. There’s also a large turntable used to rotate the locomotives, a still operating crane, old-fashioned signals, and more.

Photo: Remko de Waal

Many visitors won’t be able to pass up the opportunity to take a ride on the old steam train that runs along a century-old railway line between Apeldoorn and Dieren through part of the Veluwe. If this sounds like your sort of thing, head over to the website for tickets and further details.

Where to eat
If the weather is warm, set sail for Soap, a cafe with a beach theme. They do lunch and their dinner offerings include burgers, poke bowls, and more. Stadscafe is a lively brasserie with a cocktail bar.

Martins has been going strong since the 1930s and serves meat and seafood dishes. Sizzles at the Park is along the same lines and located across from Oranjepark. Mr. Murk is a more casual eatery that does lunch and dinner. Puik Brouwerij is a brewpub with over two dozen beers on tap and a menu chock full of regional dishes.

There are plenty of places to eat. Photo: Brandon Hartley

Tootje’s is a good lunch spot with sandwiches, wraps, and more. The cheekily named Don Quichotte, as you’ve probably guessed, specialises in quiches. The kid-friendly and charming Paviljoen Amalia doesn’t have a website, but it’s a pancake cafe decorated with carousel horses and old radios in Amaliapark. In search of ice cream? Aim for Van Swoll. At the time of this writing, their crazier flavours include watermelon, lemon cheesecake, and honey melon.

Coffeehouses where you can sit out a rain shower or watch the world go by are in short supply. Nevertheless, KOAFE has you covered. It’s the place to head if you’re in the mood for a latte or a chai. Café Het Oude Huis lives up to its name. It’s the oldest brown bar in town and the classic interior makes it a prime example of these types of watering holes.

Where to stay
Lodgings are somewhat limited in the city. Try the three-star Hotel et le Café de Paris. Zenzez is a small boutique hotel with a lounge housed inside a wonderfully restored Art Nouveau villa.

Hotel Pegasus has a Victorian vibe and will make you feel like you’ve just stepped into a Charles Dickens novel. Each room has a theme, too. A few examples: ‘The Inventor’s Attic’ and ‘The Earl’s Chamber.’ The four-star Bilderberg Hotel De Keizerskroon is located across from Paleis Het Loo and was once owned by Queen Wilhelmina.

How to get there
It takes about an hour to get to Apeldoorn on a train from Amsterdam Centraal. The drive over is typically about ten minutes longer.

Anything else?
The city hosts an international dragon boat racing tournament every summer. The races usually take place over the course of two days. Attendees can also enjoy live music performances, a market with food trucks, and more. Keep tabs on the website for details concerning the 2026 edition.

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