The often overlooked capital of Overijssel has a colourful history and it is well worth a day trip or a longer stay.

Zwolle was liberated by a single Canadian soldier during World War II but before that it was perhaps best known for being home to the world’s first secondary school. It was founded by Johan Cele, a key member in the Modern Devotion movement, back in the 15th century and a statue honouring his legacy currently stands in a small courtyard along the Papenstraat.

Once upon a time, the locals were called Blauwvingers (Bluefingers) and it’s a term that still pops up every now and then these days. The story behind this one depends on who you ask.

According to the most oft-repeated version, it was the end result of a deal gone wrong with Kampen. Desperate for cash, authorities in Zwolle sold the neighbouring community a pair of damaged church bells in 1682. To get back at them, Kampen paid the bill with copper coins that stained the fingers of those tasked with counting them.

Zwolle was part of the powerful Hanseatic League and its liberation from Germany in April of 1945 is credited to Canuck soldier Léo Major. His fearless heroics during the war later earned him the nickname “The Rambo of Quebec” and he was made an honorary citizen of the city decades later in 2005.

Zwolle is also the hometown of the legendary Dutch rocker and artist Herman Brood, whose career and tragic fate were compiled in the now shuttered “Herman Brood Experience”.

But you can easily pass a few hours or longer in the nearby Museum de Fundatie before checking out what else the city has to offer in its historic centre, which is surrounded on all sides by a ring of canals.

Five things to do

Storm the Sassenpoort
If you arrive by train, one of the first things bound to catch your eye as you head toward the centre is this colossal gate, which could literally tower over many of its counterparts elsewhere around the country.

Its height is representative of Zwolle’s wealth when it was constructed back in the early 15th century. The designers also included slits so boiling pitch could be dumped on the heads of anybody foolish enough to attempt a raid. Duke Charles of Guelders was among those who tried but, fortunately for him, the locals opted to trap him between the gates below instead.

The adjacent city walls once encircled Zwolle’s centre, but have since been reduced to a few chunks and towers scattered about. You can still explore the Sassenpoort, and if you really enjoy yourself, you can book it for weddings. A hall on the second floor accommodates up to 40 guests.

Visit Museum de Fundatie
This equally eye-catching visual arts museum is not to be missed and downright impossible to miss as you walk by. It’s located in a former courthouse with what looks like a egg-shaped UFO on the roof.

The out-of-this-world structure up top contains temporary exhibits and a cafe with great views of the city below. Downstairs, you’ll find the permanent collection, which includes art dating from the Middle Ages to the present day. It includes the early work of Piet Mondrian and one of the paintings from Vincent van Gogh’s Le Moulin de la Galette series.

Investigate an unsolved murder case in a unique bookstore
De Broerenkerk is a gorgeous church that dates back to 1512 and was converted into a popular bookstore in 2013. The vaulted ceiling features 139 paintings dating back to the 16th century and the organ is still in place upstairs.

There’s also the tragic story of another “Herman”, an unfortunate Zwolle resident who was evidently murdered on the grounds sometime between 1316 and 1440. Archaeologists uncovered his remains and discovered his hands and wrists bound, which suggests foul play.

What happened to Herman may never be known, but it’s inspired a theatrical musical and a rather grim depiction of his final hours featuring a dummy locked in a clear plastic box. You’ll find it, appropriately enough, near the horror section. You can pay your respects before checking out the latest releases or having lunch in the cafe on the main floor.

Stomp over to Dinoland
There’s another Jurassic Park movie in cinemas at the time of this writing so, if you’ve got kids, they’ve probably got a full blown case of dino fever and there is a small theme park in Zwolle that could help sate their appetite for gigantic prehistoric lizards.

The family-friendly Dinoland features several indoor and outdoor attractions. You can spot around 100 of them, either in the form of large statues or puppets wandering the grounds. Dinoland also has playgrounds, a mini-golf course, a climbing wall, and more. Just keep in mind the park is only open seasonally between April and October.

A truly small museum
You can step into the teeny-tiny world of artist Hasan Kale at this museum that’s small in more ways than one. He specialises in the micro art that fills Miniature Museum Zwolle.

Kale uses objects including coffee beans, eggshells, and grains of rice as his canvases while creating his microscopic masterpieces. The museum truly is tiny and can only accommodate ten people at once. Reserving a time slot on weekends or during school holidays is advised.

Where to eat

Dagcafé het Zuidkoor is a good place to head for lunch, high tea, or just a late afternoon snack. It’s located in the Academiehuis, Zwolle’s former Grote Kerk, which also hosts music events and currently has a small bookshop.

Despite the name, De Gillende Keukenmeiden (Screaming Kitchen Maids) is a low-key lunch spot with outdoor seating. They also do breakfast. Grand Café Staatsman is a more elegant option with both lunch and dinner menus.

La Cucaracha is open for dinner and whips up both Mexican dishes and tapas. Het Refter, housed in a historic building, has an extensive beer menu. There’s 20 on tap and 200 more in bottles. Head here for a brew or check out their breakfast, lunch, and dinner offerings. JaffaJaffa occupies a former monastery and focuses on street food as well as cocktails.

On the caffeine side of things, aim for Sam’s Coffee if you need a breather and latte. Espressobar Maling is another option that serves as the headquarters for Frans van der Berg and Sander Groenink, two Dutch coffee champions. They’ve also got a bakery on an upper floor that keeps their bar well supplied with treats.

Het Beugeltje is a nice spot for a beer. It’s located in the Wijndragerstoren (Wine Carriers’ Tower), one of the three remaining towers that once lined Zwolle’s city walls. Along with a cosey interior, it also has an outdoor terrace.

Where to stay
The city’s former prison for women has been converted into De Librije, home to both a nineteen room hotel and the Netherlands’ only three star Michelin restaurant.

The neo-Gothic Statenzaal government building has impressive interiors and contains Hotel Staatsman. Each of its seven rooms are marvellously decorated with historic furniture and decor. If spending a night or two in a medieval defence tower sounds like fun, check out De Pelsertoren. Pillows Grand Boutique Hotel Ter Borch has quite the name. It fills a former 19th century police station near Zwolle’s train station.

How to get there
 You can reach Zwolle by train from Amsterdam in little over an hour. If traffic isn’t so bad, the trek by car is about as long.

Anything else?
Black Francis, the lead singer of The Pixies, recorded a solo album back in 2007 titled Bluefinger and each song references the life and times of Herman Brood. A few years later, it was turned into a rock opera.