Dutch destinations: a second look at Leeuwarden
Brandon HartleyMarkets, minature people, a leaning tower, and a packed cultural agenda – the Frisian capital of Leeuwarden has a lot going on this autumn. We last wrote about Leeuwarden’s visitor attractions way back in 2018, so it is definitely time for an update.
Leeuwarden’s history dates all the way back to the 2nd century AD but the city is perhaps best known for the Oldehove, a city centre tower with a noticeable tilt. While it may not lean as far as the more famous one in Pisa, it’s considered no less iconic by the locals. An oft-cited regional credo claims the locals get anxious if they venture too far from Leeuwarden to see it. The tower can still be climbed by visitors and the view across the Frisian capital into the countryside beyond makes the long haul worth it.
Five things to do
Grab a few groceries
There are still a few things for sale at Museum De Grutterswinkel which served various purposes over the centuries before being converted into a small grocery store. The Feenstra sisters inherited the place in the early 20th century and, despite their youth, managed to turn it into a thriving business that catered to Leeuwarden’s elite.
Local politicians and others flocked there for its fine selection of coffee, tea, and wine. The sisters retired and the store closed in 1973, but it was eventually converted into a charming museum. The store hasn’t changed much since then and a variety of classic products are still on the shelves, some of which you can buy.
The museum also has a cafe and displays upstairs devoted to old products from various Dutch grocery chains. Be sure to have a look at the baby carriage in one of the bedrooms. It contains a secret dating back to World War II. Alas, the speakeasy and distillery in the basement ceased operations about a century ago.
Have a wild time
You can explore the Netherlands by land and sea along with more distant locales all under one roof at Natuurmuseum Fryslân. There are four floors full of wildlife displays, but the big draw is OnderWaterSafari. Visitors can go on a quick trip through the nation’s waterways and get a glimpse at the inhabitants of the Wadden Sea as well as lakes and rivers.
Along with that, there’s the opportunity to drift through time at Dino Dubbelgangers, an exhibition about prehistoric life and how modern animals help researchers learn more about the habits of these ancient beasts which runs until January 5, 2025. Polar bears, beavers, otters and other creatures both big and small are also waiting to greet you at Leeuwarden’s AquaZoo.
Be on the lookout for Leeuwarden’s smallest citizens
If you encounter very tiny folks in random spots around town, your eyes aren’t playing tricks on you. They’re the work of photographer Michel Tilma who used them for a project back in the mid 2010s and later donated them to the city.
There are now over 50 scenes located in various nooks and crannies featuring Tilma’s miniature creations doing everything from looking at their smartphones to cleaning up toxic waste. Can you find them all? Using a Miniature People Route Map will certainly help. There’s a paper version available for a small fee at several locations as well as a virtual one that works with Google Maps.
Peer into the life and times of Pier Pander
Sculptor Pier Pander overcame a disability and literally carved his way out of poverty to become one of the region’s best known artists. His most famous work is arguably a portrait of queen Wilhelmina that was used on a coin in the late 19th century.
A small shrine dedicated to the sculptor can be found in the Prinsentuin, a park located along the Noorder Stadsgracht. It’s one of two buildings that serve as a museum devoted to his career. The park itself is also well worth checking out and was once off limits to mere mortals, given it was a private garden for the royals. King Willem I donated the park to the city 150 years later and its gates were finally opened to the public.
Explore the countryside
Leeuwarden is a good gateway to the Frisian countryside and a 15 minute bike ride will transport you to the middle of picturesque fields and open vistas. If you’ve ever wanted one of your photos to appear on an RTL weather report, this is a good place to snap a gorgeous shot of fluffy clouds that would look great on TV.
Cycling route maps are available at the visitor centre across the square from the Oldehove. If you’ve got a boat, the region’s waterways are your oyster and Leeuwarden is home to a few of the country’s best marinas.
Where to eat
De Hofdame is a large cafe across from the Oldehove with extensive lunch and dinner menus. Just look for the large mural of Princess Marie Louise on the side of the building. Families with young kids will probably prefer ‘t Pannekoekschip Leeuwarden. The name pretty much says everything you need to know. It’s a pancake house located on an old sailing ship. De Koperen Tuin is in the Prinsentuin and is a good spot for lunch, dinner, or drinks.
If the weather is cooperating, aim for Stek. This small cafe’s terrace is the perfect place to watch boats leisurely float by, but the tables fill up fast around lunchtime.
Vegetarians and vegans will probably want to steer clear of the Meat Room but their dinner offerings are bloody good in more ways than one. There’s also a few veggie options.
Restaurant Eindeloos specialises in locally sourced ingredients for their scrumptious offerings. The truly unique SPOONK Art Cantina serves vegan lunches and coffee in a quirky gallery full of modern art and vintage clothes from the ‘40s through the ‘70s.
Leeuwarden is home to several fantastic coffee cafes if you find yourself in need of a place to kill some time on an rainy afternoon. Barrevoets is cute and they have a lunch menu. Farid Saaidi quit his job a few years ago and bought a one way ticket to New Zealand where he learned pretty much everything there is to know about running a coffeehouse. He’s now the proprietor of the very cool Fer Koffie. It’s one of the best places to grab a latte in the Netherlands.
Bars don’t get much more Dutch than Oranje Bierhuis. It’s one of the oldest in Friesland and it still has rugs covering many of the tables inside. In De Brouwerij is another great spot to grab a beer. More on that one in the next section.
Where to stay
Leeuwarden was once home to over 100 breweries. Now it’s down to only a handful. In De Brouwerij serves as a tribute to the city’s brewing legacy. Along with a cafe, it also has a boutique hotel with eleven rooms located in the old coach house. Hotel Vie Via is another good pick and it’s located in the centre of the city. De Olde Signorie is a bed and breakfast with classic decor. Fletcher Hotel-Paleis Stadhouderlijk Hof was a palace owned by the royals until the 1970s and has an on site bistro.
How to get there
The journey to Leeuwarden’s train station from Amsterdam Centraal is typically around 2.5 hours. Travelling there by car is usually a two hour trek that will take you across the Afsluitdijk on the A7. If you are fond of walking, ditch the car and go by train. Leeuwarden’s city centre is compact and easy to get around.
Anything else?
Leeuwarden has one of the country’s best tourism websites I have found and it’s packed full of helpful tips and suggestions. If you click on a dead link, you’ll be treated to a cheeky animation of a poor guy trying to prevent the Oldehove from falling over and crushing him.
Click here to read our first Dutch destinations article about Leeuwarden from 2018 to learn about other places you can visit in the city.
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