The pretty villages of Edam, Monnickendam and Marken are well worth a visit at any time of year. A weekend in this part of Noord-Holland will give you a whole lot of history, picture-perfect vistas, and interesting little shops and museums to poke around in whatever the season.

The three villages border the Gouwzee and the Markermeer – a 700 square kilometre freshwater lake that was created when the Zuiderzee was dammed off by the Afsluitdijk in 1932. A large part of the lake has been drained to create Flevoland in the east, but in the west, the shoreline remains very much as it was centuries ago.

Edam, Monnickendam and Marken all have their own charms, with little harbours, 16th century cottages and plenty of places to eat and drink. You can drive or take a bus between them, but cycling fans can cover the short distances easily – as can keen walkers with a little more time on their hands.

The one village missing from this list is Volendam which you will see touted in every tour operator’s list of unmissable outings. We disagree. Volendam has completely ruined itself with tourist tat and has nothing really going for it apart from the ferry across the Gouwzee to Marken.

Three villages to visit

Edam
You can take well over an hour wandering around Edam’s narrow streets and canals and you can pick up the route for a guided city walk at the tourist office opposite the former town hall.

Edam’s museum is located in a former merchant’s house and is one of the oldest buildings in the town. It offers an intriguing peek into what life was like in the town in the 16th and 17th centuries

The Grote Kerk on the Grote Kerkstraat really is a big church and is worth a visit for a glimpse of how important religion was in the 16th and 17th century. And if you’ve come for the cheese, there are several shops, and in July and August, re-enactments of how the cheese market once worked.

Marken
Marken is a place where you will drift back in time. The former island is now connected to the mainland by a causeway and the 7.5 kilometre walk around the dyke is well worth it for the views over the Markermeer – unless it is blowing a gale.

The village itself consists of a warren of green-painted wooden houses, and there are several cafes on the harbour where you can sit and while away the hours. Marken is very busy in the summer and on sunny days, so if you really want to savour the place, go out of season.

The Sijtje Boes Experience is the grand name for an original wooden Marken house, packed with furniture, pottery and fabrics and where you can also have a digital photo of yourself taken in full Marken costume. Worth a visit if not too busy.

Monnickendam
Monnickendam feels the most authentic of the three villages, partly because it still has a working shipyard on the edge of its compact centre. It is also home to an eel smoke house – the last of what was once a major industry.

The Speeltoren museum has a lot of local history, and a great film about the tram that used to connect Monnickendam to Amsterdam. If you time it right, kids will love watching the carillion, which dates from the end of the 16th century and still plays to this day.

The St Nicholaas church, also known appropriately as the Grote Kerk, is also worth a visit, hosts exhibitions by local artists, and has a second hand book exchange.

Where to eat?
All three villages offer plenty of cafes and restaurants, with thriving outdoor terraces on sunny days and cosy interiors when the winter wind is blowing.

The Prinsenbar in Edam is located on the former cheese market and is very much a locals’ place while De Beurs on the Keizersgracht is a good option for lunch, dinner or just drinks.

In Monnickendam you have a choice of several cafes heading towards the harbour. We had a jolly lunch at De Waegh, the former weigh house, with waterfront tables and were very tempted by the ice creams at IJssalon Dolci & Gelati further down the Haven.

On Marken, the restaurants are concentrated around the cafe. Our favourite is the Taverne de Visscher, or fisherman’s tavern, for a glass of wine and a plate of bitterballen in the late afternoon winter sun.

Where to stay
De Fortuna in Edam is a picturesque hotel with 23 rooms and a pretty garden on the water. Monnickendam has a few hotel options, including the rather grand Fortuna Spinoza which has been a hotel since 1819.  There are no hotels nor, as far as we are aware, any B&Bs on Marken.

How to get there
Bus, bike or car – there are no direct train routes.

Anything else?
The villages all have plenty of events organised throughout the year, from markets to guided walks and candlelight concerts. So check out the local tourist offices to make sure you don’t miss out – or know what to avoid.

And if, and its a very big if, we get a long cold snap in the winter, the Gouwzee is a great place to skate on open ice.