Dutch destinations: Go back in time in eastern Drenthe

Eastern Drenthe is perhaps the most underrated part of the Netherlands. Its rolling scenery, its history and its villages – low thatched farmhouses, tiny brick churches and woodlands – make it a perfect place to spend a few sunny autumn days.

Assen is the provincial capital. It has the region’s main museum and boasts the second-biggest department store in the Netherlands. It is also home to the Dutch TT circuit, offering a wide variety of motorcycle races from April to October. But the real charm of the region is in the countryside.

A weekend is not enough to take in everything, so here is a taster of what eastern Drenthe has to offer.

What to do

Visit the hunebedden
Eastern Drenthe is all about hunebedden, the Neolithic burial chambers built by the Funnel Beaker people over 5,000 years ago. Drenthe is home to 52 of the 54 known hunebedden in the Netherlands, and many are concentrated around Borger, where the national hunebed centre is based.

The biggest hunebed, with the not-so-romantic name D27, is located in the woods next to the visitors’ centre. The grounds are also home to a bizarre collection of zwerfstenen, or boulders, which were brought down to the province from Scandinavia by glaciers. Many of the stones have labels showing exactly where in Sweden or Norway they came from.

In addition, the centre has a café and a sort of Neolithic playground – the Prehistoric Park – where children can check out recreations of ancient homes. During peak season volunteers in costume are on hand to explain about the lives of people who lived in the region and demonstrate ancient crafts. No dogs.

Walk along the Hondsrug
The Hondsrug (literally “dog’s back”) is listed as a Unesco Global Geopark because of its unique history, deriving from the last two ice ages. This 70-kilometre-long glacial ridge made of sand and clay is the only one of its kind in Europe. There are dozens of walking and cycle trails to explore, as well as small museums, such as the De Nabershof working farm near Emmen. You can find out more about the region’s geology at the visitors centre, next to the hunebed centre in Borger.

Stroll around Orvelte
About 20 minutes south of Assen is Orvelte, a Drenthe village untouched by time, which has become a sort of open-air museum. It’s car-free – you park on the outskirts – but there is a horse-drawn “bus” if you have little ones with you who don’t want to walk.

Stroll past the thatched farmhouses, stop off for what we were told is the best apple pie in Drenthe, and check out the little museums – which seem to be based largely on the locals’ hobbies, such as collecting model cars and rare sheep.

There is a good sprinkling of shops, some of which sell tourist tat, but some are upmarket outlets selling wonderful antique pottery and glass, as well as clothes and bric-a-brac. Plenty of options for lunch and morning coffee. If you are into Christmas themes, Orvelte will transform into a Christmas village from December 18 to 20.

Catch up on history at the Drents Museum in Assen
The Drents Museum in the provincial capital Assen hit the headlines in 2025 when criminals broke in overnight and stole a number of priceless gold relics, most of which have since been recovered. There is no Romanian gold on show any longer – the current special exhibition is about Angkor in Cambodia – but the museum is well worth a visit to find out more about the history of the region.

It is heavy on the infotainment, so there’s plenty to keep the kids occupied, but the museum nevertheless has something for everyone. Located in several buildings linked by tunnels and overground walkways, the museum has Neolithic finds, art (a couple of Van Goghs), recreated stijlkamers (period rooms), temporary exhibitions and a fine café for lunch.

Go on a tree walk
The Boomkroonpad – treetop path – takes you from the roots of an oak tree up into the treetops, where you can walk along a very solid metal structure and admire the forest from above. The path is also the starting point for five forest floor walks, ranging from three to 16.5 kilometres, and there are plenty of organised activities for families – deer and mushroom spotting, for example – all year round.

Where to eat
All the attractions we visited had cafés for lunch, mainly selling standard-fare sandwiches and broodjes kroket. Assen has a good selection of cafés and restaurants for dinner. We ate at our hotel, Rikus, which uses local produce and offers three-, four- and five-course menus. Be warned: the portions are big as well as being delicious.

Where to stay
Rikus, a small hotel in the village of Eext, about 20 minutes from Assen and Borger, has an eclectic interior and big bedrooms with views over the countryside. As a couple we paid €331 for bed, breakfast, a three-course dinner and drinks.

There is a hotel and a quaint-looking B&B in Orvelte, and Assen is home to Hotel de Jonge, with a large café terrace in the heart of the old city. Drenthe is popular with Dutch holidaymakers, so, as you would expect, there are plenty of campsites and holiday parks to choose from as well.

Anything else
Unless you are big on cycling or long walks, you really need a car to get around the region. The attractions can get very busy at weekends in the summer months, which may well dent their charm. The Dutch TT Grand Prix takes place on the last Sunday in June.