This summer, our resident wine expert, Vicky Hampton, is taking us on a wine-fuelled journey through southern Europe to three top holiday destinations for Dutch travellers. In July, we covered Spanish whites from Rueda to Rioja; in August, we’re heading to the Italian island of Sicily!

As if Sicily weren’t popular enough as a holiday destination, season two of The White Lotus cemented its reputation as an island paradise (albeit with some nefarious characters thrown in for televisual drama). And in August, it’s not just northern Europeans who flock to Sicily’s seaside resorts – thousands of Italians migrate from the mainland to celebrate Ferragosto, Italy’s traditional summer holiday on 15 August that often seems to last most of the month.

Volcanic wines

Given Sicily’s southerly location – the island sits at the same latitude as Tunis, kicked off the tip of Italy’s toe – it’s no surprise that the climate is hot and dry. Viticulture often requires irrigation and grapes that are resistant to extreme heat, while organic wines are common as grapes in dry climates need less protection against fungal diseases.

The foothills of Mount Etna – Sicily’s famous active volcano – are known for their spectacular volcanic wines, which benefit from cooler temperatures at higher-altitude vineyards. But the complexities of growing vines in a volcanic environment mean that Etna wines are expensive – especially by the time they’ve been exported to the Netherlands.

Sicily’s native grapes

Luckily for us, the rest of Sicily’s coastal and mountainous regions offer plenty of choice at far more affordable price points. Like much of Italy, Sicily is awash with native grapes that you won’t find anywhere else.

When it comes to whites, look out for crisp Carricante, perfumed Zibibbo and versatile Grillo. Reds range from richly spiced Nero d’Avola to delicately fruity Frappato, and from Etna’s complex Nerello Mascalese to easy-drinking Nocera. Plus, there are plenty of dry, blushing rosato wines made from many of these same grapes. Those who appreciate a glass of bubbles at aperitivo o’clock won’t be disappointed either: look out for Sicily’s lightly sparkling frizzante wines and traditional method spumante.

Best budget bottle: Cantine Birgi “Tre Venti” Frappato, Terre Siciliane IGP 2023 (€9.95)

Cantine Birgi is a cooperative near Marsala, on the western tip of Sicily, with vineyards on coastal flats as well as elevated plots up to 700 metres – all of which helps ensure light, fresh wines that are perfect for summer. Available from Bosman Wijnkopers in The Hague, the “Tre Venti” (three winds) Frappato is a case in point: fresh strawberries and redcurrants, a touch of peppery smoke, and eminently chillable.

I’d serve this with almost any tomato-based dish, from pizza and pasta to salads and sides. If you’re feeling particularly Sicilian, try this Frappato with caponata: a tangy stew of aubergine, peppers and tomato. Or indulge in the island’s signature penne alla Norma – a classic Sicilian pasta dish made with tomato, aubergine, basil and ricotta salata.

Magnificent mid-range: Planeta Terebinto Grillo, Menfi DOC 2023 (€14.65)

Grillo is one of those grapes that can produce wines in a variety of different styles, depending on choices made during the process (a bit like Chardonnay). I’ve tasted Grillos that are puckeringly citric and saline, ideal with simply grilled white fish at lunchtime (Sicily’s swordfish is particularly good). But I’ve also had fleshy, tropical Grillos (sometimes with a touch of oak) that would better suit rich, creamy pasta dishes.

This month’s mid-range pick from Planeta, one of Sicily’s most reputable producers, falls somewhere between the two ends of the spectrum. It has plenty of acidity, with aromas of lemon peel and pineapple – but the texture is full-bodied, nutty and waxy. Pick up a bottle at Gall & Gall stores nationwide, and pair it with the island’s rich pasta with prawn and pistachio sauce (Sicily is famous for its pistachio production!).

Something special: Fabrizio Vella Catarratto, Terre Siciliane IGP 2024 (€16.69)

My final pick is a little divisive, and perhaps less crowd-pleasing than the other two but certainly an interesting option for the more adventurous wine drinker. Catarratto is known as a “workhorse” grape that’s often used in blends with other varieties – but in this case has been vinified by itself as an orange wine, where the juice is left to macerate on the grape skins. Fabrizio Vella’s version is also an unfiltered, natural wine that uses wild yeasts, no pesticides and minimal sulphites.

The result – available at Grapdedistrict – is a slightly cloudy, peach-hued wine with aromas of apricot, black tea and bergamot, coupled with the texture and acidity to stand up to a wide range of food, from tangy cheeses to spicy curries (not that you’ll find many of those in Sicily!). It’s worth noting at this point that my friend who swears she cannot abide natural wines actually went back for a second and third glass, so don’t be scared to try this one even if it’s not your usual cup of tea.

All featured wines are available here in the Netherlands from supermarkets, off-licence chains, local wine shops and online stores. For more of Vicky’s wine recommendations and grape explorations, follow @TrufflesandTannins on Instagram or subscribe to The Wine Edit on Substack!