Wine Watch: Rethinking rosé, however pink it is
Vicky Hampton
Each month, our resident wine expert, Vicky Hampton, shares her seasonal wine picks for those on a budget and those with a little more cash to splash. All featured wines are available here in the Netherlands from supermarkets, off-licence chains, local wine shops and online stores.
The very fact that the Dutch weather has screamed “rosé season!” for much of the past few months inevitably means that it’ll be raining as soon as I publish an article about rosé. But such is the life of a wine writer: I often have to do my research and file copy before I can check the weather forecast.
That said, what do we even mean by rosé season? Many of us picture a glass of something barely blushing in colour, so thoroughly chilled it looks to be perspiring, sipped while sat on a terrace or overlooking the beach at sunset. And yet there’s much more to rosé than simply summer-apéritif o’clock.
Pale pinks versus robust rosés
While global sales of red and white wines are in decline, rosé is one of the few categories still on the rise. Whispering Angel helped popularise the pale, Provence-style pink, while last year’s “chicken wine” trend well and truly sealed the deal. Seemingly as a result, many consumers now assume that paler = better and wouldn’t dream of buying a darker hued rosé for fear it might be too sweet or too heavy.
But here’s where a little myth-busting – and a quick explainer – comes in handy. Most rosé wines are made from red grapes. When the grapes are pressed lightly and the juice is drained almost immediately off the skins, the result is a very pale wine with light, citrusy, delicate flavours. When the grape skins are left to macerate in the juice for a little longer, the colour deepens and the flavours shift towards red fruit. It’s as simple as that.
So, if you love light, lemony whites, you’ll prefer a paler rosé. But if you’re a fan of fuller-bodied styles, a touch of tannin, or just wines that can stand up to food, chances are you’ll enjoy a darker coloured rosé too.
That’s why this month’s wine picks veer away from the ultra-pale, aperitif-only style of rosé and lean into bottles that are fuller and fruitier – but still bone dry. While I’d happily drink any of these by themselves, they’re more food-friendly than their Provençale cousins so I’ve suggested pairing tips for serving alongside. Proost to pinks!

Best budget bottle: Mucho Más Rosado, Spain (€7.69 but often on offer for less)
I sometimes struggle to find budget bottles for this column, but the rosé market is awash with wines for under a tenner – especially those from Spain. Mucho Más Rosado is my guilty pleasure: a non-vintage blend of red grapes (in this case, predominantly Garnacha, Bobal and Tempranillo) sourced from across the country to produce a simple table wine.
Yes, the berry fruit can be a little candied, and don’t expect a lot of complexity, but it’s still delicious, dangerously drinkable and ideal for a party. Try serving it with ripe strawberries wrapped in prosciutto, which emphasises the fruit-forward character of the wine and makes it even more gluggable. Available from Gall & Gall stores nationwide (often on discount).
Magnificent mid-range: Tenuta Antonini, Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC, Italy (€10.42)
You may well have tried “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo”, which is red wine made in the Abruzzo region (east of Rome) from Montepulciano grapes. In this case, Tenuta Antonini has used the same red grapes to make a dashing rosé.
I loved the refreshing watermelon and pink grapefruit hit from this Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo, followed by intense yet smooth pomegranate. A smart, fuller bodied rosé with a long finish that tastes more expensive than it is. Take a bottle to a BBQ – it would go great with grilled chicken and salads. Available online from Altijd de Beste Wijn.
Something special: Piekenierskloof Wilhelmina MCC, Western Cape, South Africa (€32.50)
Because I celebrated my birthday recently, I turned to bubbles to source my “something special” for this month’s rosé recommendations. South African producer Piekenierskloof makes its Wilhelmina MCC sparkling rosé using the “Cap Classique” method (the same technique used to produce Champagne) but based on its signature Grenache grapes.
The wine is aged on its lees for two years in bottle, lending it soft brioche notes alongside peaches and cream. I served this with various party canapés but it would also go wonderfully with fried chicken or shrimp croquettes. Perfect for a celebration! Available from Simply South African Deli in The Hague.
For more of Vicky’s wine recommendations and grape explorations, follow @TrufflesandTannins on Instagram or subscribe to The Wine Edit on Substack – she generally writes an “expansion pack” of her Wine Watch columns soon after publication, featuring more wines and food pairings!
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