Each month, our resident wine expert, Vicky Hampton, shares her seasonal wine picks for those on a budget and those with a little more cash to splash. All featured wines are available here in the Netherlands from supermarkets, off-licence chains, local wine shops and online stores.

Perhaps because my birthday is in May, it’s the month in which I’m more aware than usual of the unpredictability of the Dutch weather. I’ve spent some birthdays in glorious, canal-side sunshine and others tucked up indoors with the heating on. May is a month in which you’re never sure what you’re in for, weather-wise: not quite spring, not quite summer.

Which is why when it comes to wine, something versatile is required. A bottle that could be chilled and taken to a BBQ or served with home-cooked comfort food. A wine with more heft than a rosé but enough brightness to carry us into the long, light evenings. Transition seasons are when light reds come into their own.

Northern Lights

Wines from more northerly regions in Europe tend to do the job very well. From France, you’ve got juicy, red-fruited Gamay from Beaujolais and the Savoie, as well as peppery, herbaceous Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley. From Northern Italy, think cherry-led Valpolicella and palely floral Schiava. German Spätburgunder is generally a brighter, fresher alternative to Burgundy’s Pinot Noir (although they’re the same grape). And Austria produces plenty of soft yet zingy Zweigelt as well as more structured reds made from Blaufränkisch.

Of course, these are generalisations – and any general rule will certainly have its exceptions. But look out for young, unoaked examples of these Northern European reds and you’re likely to find light-bodied, gluggable wines with vibrant acidity and juicy red fruit.

Best served chilled

All the wines in my picks below will taste best when lightly chilled. Not fridge-cold, but around 12 degrees Celsius. Assuming you don’t have a temperature-controlled wine fridge, pop your room temperature bottle into the regular fridge for about 45 minutes, and it should have had just enough time to chill by the time you open it.

I would drink many of these reds by themselves, but they’re also extremely versatile when it comes to food. They’ll pair well with anything from tapas on the terrace to picnics in the park. And if the weather takes a turn for the worse, a light red also works wonders with tomato-based pizza and veggie-based pasta dishes.

Best budget bottle: Mehofer Blauer Zweigelt, Wagram, Austria 2021 (€11.95 for one litre)

At first glance, this wine looks pricier than my “budget” category. But because Mehofer sells its wine by the litre (rather than in regular-sized bottles of 750 ml), this works out at the equivalent of €9 per bottle. Which is lucky because it’s super smashable: easy-drinking, raspberry smoothie with just a hint of spice to pep things up. With high acidity, low tannins and bonus points for being organic, this is perfect picnic wine. Available from Bilderdijk Wijnhuys in Amsterdam West.

Magnificent mid-range: Thomas Hensel Aufwind Spätburgunder, Pfalz, Germany 2022 (€13.59)

A great value, juicy Spätburgunder, this is a perfect example of the top-quality Pinot Noir wines that are coming out of the Pfalz region these days. It’s more full-bodied than the Zweigelt above, but still bursting with ripe cherries, strawberries and black pepper. Tannins are smooth, and there’s enough structure in the wine to stand up to cheese and BBQ-ed meats. Although I’d still crack open a Spätburgunder at borrel o’clock without hesitation!

I bought this wine from Bovino, but I’d suggest checking wine-searcher.com to find your nearest local stockist (there are several in the Netherlands, as well as Germany of course).

Something special: Fabrice Gasnier “Les Cornuelles” Chinon Rouge, Loire Valley, France 2021 (€19.95)

“Rustic but refined” is what I wrote down in my trusty red notebook when tasting this wine. Made from old-vine Cabernet Franc (a grape that seems to be having a bit of a moment in wine fashion right now), this Chinon elegantly combines cranberries and cherries with dried herbs and green pepper. This one probably does work better with food than without, but it would go well with everything from pizza to paella. Available from Bosman Wijnkopers and in-store at Bilderdijk Wijnhuys (though not on their website).

For more of Vicky’s wine recommendations and grape explorations, follow @TrufflesandTannins on Instagram or subscribe to The Wine Edit on Substack – she generally writes an “expansion pack” of her Wine Watch columns the week after publication, featuring more wines and food pairings!