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Dutch News destinations: Zoom on down, or up, to Zierikzee

April 14, 2024 Robin Pascoe
Photo: Frans Berkelaar via Flickr

Zierikzee is charming provincial town on the former island of Schouwen-Duiveland in Zeeland, less than an hour’s drive south of Rotterdam. With a population of just 11,000, Zierikzee is still largely confined within the original town walls, which makes it the perfect place to explore during a weekend getaway – as long as you avoid the high season. Like much of Zeeland, it gets very busy when the sun comes out.

The town dates from 1248, making it older than Amsterdam, and it still has plenty of history, despite suffering some damage during World War II and in the great flood of 1953.

Things to do:

Go on a Schelde safari
There are several options for exploring the Schelde estuary, which is rich in wildlife, including a colony of seals who hang out around the sandbanks. Scheldesafari offers 45 minute tours in an inflatable rib boat for small groups.  If you visit in the summer, the nearby beaches are a must.

Check out some history
The Stadhuis Museum is housed in the former town hall which dates back 470 years and covers the history of the town in paintings, pottery, and other artefacts and offers special “quests” for children. The building itself is worth a visit (and a climb) up to the oak attic. You can also get married there.

Indulge in some retail therapy
Zierikzee is well provided for with interesting little shops, galleries and second hand stores. Pick up some art in Galerie Koster, browse the vinyl collection at the Platenlounge or poke around in second hand stores along the Oude Haven. Shops are not open on Sunday.

The view towards Havenplein. Photo: Davidh820 via Flickr

Explore
Zierikzee is not big but is easy to roam around in for an hour or so without doubling back on yourself. Pick up a map from any cafe or hotel (there is no tourist office), and follow the old city walls. If you would like to know more about the town’s history, you can book a guide via Gidsendienstzeeland.

In the high season you may be able to climb the 62 metres to the top of the Dikke Toren, or fat tower, which dates from 1454. The tower should have been twice  as high but work stopped in 1510 because the town ran out of money. The church itself was destroyed by fire.

The imposing Nobelpoort, one of three gateways to the walled town, was closed at night up to 1866. The nearby corn mill De Hoop can also be visited in the summer.

To the south is the Zuidhavenport, with its impressive walls and galleries which also had a defensive function. Across the bridge is the Oude Haven museum, which was in use as a harbour until the end of the 16th century. A must if you like old boats.

Photo: Rob Oo via Fickr

Get caught on camera
If you’ve always wanted to dress up in traditional Dutch costume and pose for a family photo, you can do just that at the Camera Museum – as well as find out more about the history of photography.

Where to stay
We stayed at the Hotel Mondragon on the Oude Haven, in a large comfortable room with an excellent breakfast – eggs cooked to order, rather than congealing on a heated tray – which was include in the price. The hotel also offers guests a free cocktail in the cocktail bar between 4 pm and 6 pm.

There is plenty of choice of other places to stay, all within the old town, but if you want to visit during the high season, be sure to book early.

Where to eat
Again, if you are planning a summer weekend visit, be sure to book a place to have dinner. We were even warned to do so on a rainy weekend in February.

There are lots of jolly eateries in the centre with terraces overlooking the main drag where you can get burgers and pizza.  We had an enjoyable dinner involving local oysters and fish at Restaurant de Beuze, which is very popular with the locals and far more reasonably priced than its counterparts in the big cities!

Inside the Zeeuwse Hemel cafe and shop. Photo: Dutch News

For lunch, the Zeeuwse Hemel focuses on local products and has a great selection of foodie souvenirs. They also serve food in the garden in the summer and have rooms to rent upstairs.

How to get there
The trip from Amsterdam takes around two hours by car. There is no direct train connection, so if you are using public transport, you need to change to a regional bus in either Goes or Rotterdam.

Anything else
City centre parking is reserved for locals but there is ample parking for visitors on the edge of the old centre.  On Sunday, there is very little open in the winter months.

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