Mohamed El Harouchi: From washer upper to top chef
Mohamed El Harouchi is the Netherlands’ first Dutch Moroccan chef with a Michelin star to his name. NRC talked to him.
El Harouchi was born in Midar, Morocco in 1976 and came to the Netherlands three years later. After several unsuccessful attempts at getting a chef’s diploma he decided to get some hands on experience in some of the country’s leading restaurants. In 2005 he and a former colleague started Solo in Gorinchem in the province of South Holland. A year later the restaurant was awarded a Michelin star.
Perseverance
You need perseverance to become a top chef, El Harouchi says. He is referring to the longish route he took to get to where he is now: vocational training, then jobs as a washer upper and traineeships in several prestigious restaurants, among which Parkheuvel in Rotterdam and La Rive and Vermeer in Amsterdam.
‘I never thought I would have my own restaurant but the opportunity presented itself and here we are.’
El Harouchi is not only a successful chef, he is also a Moroccan. ‘I don’t mind if I’m held up as a role model for young Moroccans although I know plenty who are doing very well’, he says. ‘They’re not all football players, that’s why you never read about them.’
Respect
Although he doesn’t make himself out to be as rude as Gordon Ramsey in the kitchen, El Harouchi doesn’t mince words. ‘I’m companiable and speak my mind. But sometimes I can be a bit of an authoritarian jerk. You get what you give with me. If Robert Kranenborg walks in it’s ‘Mr Kranenborg’or ‘chef’. It’s about respect.’
If there’s one thing the chef hates it’s sloppy work. ‘Throwing salt into a dish without thinking about it, that’s no good. You have to be passionate about what you’re doing. If you’re passionate and careful at the job you can be forgiven for slipping up.’
Postman
Stress is not a word El Harouchi has much time for. He takes things as they come.
‘I wouldn’t like to lose my Michelin star but there are more important things in life. Perhaps in the next life I’ll be a postman. My dad worked in a factory for thirty years, not quite as hectic a job as being a chef.’
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